When I say “musical theatre” what is the first thing that comes to your mind? New York, New York, right? Whether you’ve been there or not, the image in your head is Broadway Street and its lights and all that jazz. I have had the luck to visit NYC and I can tell you, that is exactly the image you’ll get in your head. I think that by now, it is common knowledge that Broadway is the Mecca of theatre, especially musicals.
Now, with the passing of the years, almost unexpectedly, Buenos Aires has developed its very own entertainment business to a very professional and prestigious level, having offered several of the most important Broadway shows to the Argentine public. And curiously enough, Buenos Aires is now the city with the most number of theatres (not bluffing, it’s a fact!). Just as NYC has a theatre district, Buenos Aires has Calle Corrientes.
The first precedent of a big Broadway musical in our city was Beauty and the Beast, back in 1998, and it was a hit. Two hundred thousand people, kids and adults, were mesmerized by the quality of the production, which was identical to the original show except for adapting the script and lyrics to the Spanish language.
For me, it all started in 2006 with Sweet Charity. Florencia Peña, a well known local comedy actress, had been cast as Charity and I wanted to see her in it. I had no idea what Sweet Charity was about and I had no knowledge of Broadway shows (in my defense, I was very young and the world wasn’t as globalized as it is now). Needless to say, I was instantly drawn to it and ended up going to see it three times!
After that, there came great hits like Les Misérables, Chicago, Phantom of the Opera, Hairspray, Piaf, The Sound of Music, Spring Awakening, Avenue Q and more.
It’s like we are collecting the musicals, we have to have them all! On that note, Mamma Mia! is opening this year and there are already rumors for future productions like The Lion King and Peter Pan. To prove my point, right now you can see the production of Next to Normal at Teatro Liceo. There are also several original musicals going on like Excalibur, based on the tale of King Arthur; or Judy, or Freddie, which both are musical tributes to Judy Garland and Freddie Mercury, respectively.
If you are in the city for a while and are looking for something other than tango shows, I’d highly recommend you to check out if there are any theatre productions you might want to see, and while you are at it, practice your Spanish listening skills! Here’s a link to the La Nacion’s theatre guide for the ongoing plays.
Bérénice Bejo is a name you might not know yet. You might not even be sure how to pronounce it. However, one thing is certain, she is getting better known after her recent role in the 2011 silent, black-and-white French movie, The Artist, and has received her first Oscar nomination of Best Supporting Actress for the same movie.She plays Peppy Miller, a young wanna-be dancer that one day bumps into her favorite silent movie star and catches her big break. Just like her character, Bérénice has landed her first world-wide recognized film which has already won three Golden Globes and is one of the favorites for the upcoming Oscars with 10 nominations, including BestMotion Picture of the Year.
The reason why we have taken a special interest in her, besides her talent, is because she is from Argentina! She was born in Buenos Aires, where her family is originally from. When she was three, because of the dictatorship, they had decided to relocate to France. Curiously enough, while living in Argentina, her father, Miguel Bejo, was also in the filmmaking industry as a director.
Since she has moved away at such an early age, one would expect that the only Argentine thing about her is her nationality. Surprisingly, she is still very much attached to this country’s culture and that she comes to Buenos Aires often to visit her extended family. As it might happen to anyone in any other countries, there is an overall excitement in the air that resembles pride when a native is successful in a world-wide business. Today, Bérénice is doing this for Argentina and she is very much embraced and celebrated by our local media.
The movie, The Artist, has just arrived in theaters here. If you are in Argentina, we highly recommend you to go see it. It is different and very well done, and it ironically introduces the magic of silent films to the newer generations that are born with and are only used to the culture of color and sound, and reality TV. For those who are learning Spanish, it’d be a great opportunity to practice your reading and comprehension skills too because the text they show on screen will be in Spanish.
Bérénice will be in for some tough competition at the Oscars but I’ll keep my fingers crossed!
Resist this: two chocolate cookies with a chocolate mousse filling and on top of that, (wait for it!) a coin-shaped pure milk chocolate in the middle, which we refer to as el botón (the button). Introducing the amazing Tentaciones cookies! If you are not convinced of the deliciousness of such combination, check out the photo to the left.
With the economic crisis that hit Argentina back in 2001, these cookies sadly had to go and for the next six years they were extinct. However, with the gradual regaining of political and economic stability, Bagley, the distributor, decided it was time for a comeback.
After all those years of absence, they definitely were not forgotten. The first shipments that hit the kioscos (kiosks/convenience stores) were gone in no time. It was actually pretty difficult to find a pack for the first few months because the demand from the public was extremely high.
The fun thing about these cookies is that, inexplicably, most Argentines consume them in a very particular manner. It’d be something similar to how people opt to eat Oreo cookies by separating the cookies and licking off the icing first. The most celebrated way to eat Tentaciones cookies is to first eat the cookie part around and right up to the edge of the milk chocolate button leaving just a chocolate button ‘sandwich’, and then popping that best part right into your mouth! To me, that’s definitely how you should eat them!
They come in five flavors: milk chocolate, vanilla, strawberry, lemon and the new dark chocolate (which has a pretty funny commercial). If you are in Buenos Aires, I highly recommend you to try them because they are as good as the Chips Ahoy in the US* and you will not regret it.
*We do have cookies that are equivalent to the Chips Ahoy in Argentina, which are called Pepitos, but they are nowhere near as good as the Tentaciones, or the real Chips Ahoy in the US, for that matter.
As Valentine’s Day is fast approaching, looking for something fun and don’t want to skip a bit in your Spanish learning and practicing, we have a few Argentine cinema to recommend. The first two are romantic comedies and the last one is a black comedy for those who are anti the occasion:
Un Novio Para Mi Mujer – A Boyfriend for My Wife
This is a great flick about a guy, Tenso, who, unable to summon up the courage to leave his cantankerous spouse Tana, decides to hire someone to seduce her so that she’ll leave him instead.
No Sos Vos, Soy Yo – It’s Not You, It’s Me
A couple, María and Javier, are planning to emigrate from Argentina to the United States. María, who already has US residency, leaves first, and they’re planning on Javier joining her later on. Having quit his job, sold his car and apartment, Javier is on his way to the airport when María calls and tells him that she doesn’t want him to come after all. Devastated, Javier struggles to get back into the dating scene.
Esperando La Carroza – Waiting for the Hearse
This is a classic Argentine black comedy. Mamá Cora is in her eighties and living with her youngest son and his family, who have financial difficulties. After a disagreement with her daughter-in-law, she goes to babysit the child of a neighbor to get out of the way for a while. All of her children, at a family event, hear news that the body of an old woman has been found under a train and assume that Mamá Cora must have killed herself in order to stop causing trouble.
In comparison to many major cities in the world, taxi rides here in Buenos Aires are no doubt considerably more affordable than the others. However, they are no longer as economical as before either, especially if you have been living in the city through all the changes one after another, all within less than a year of time. Even though the increases have taken place quite a few months ago already, a lot of tourists who are armed with a tour guide might still not be informed of the latest fares due to the ‘frequent changes’. Let me lay them all out for you here:
Taking a taxi during the day time from 6am – 10pm, the meter will start from AR$7.30 (up from AR$5.80) and it will increase in the increments of AR$0.58 every 200 meters, which are around 2 blocks, or every minute of waiting.
If you get on one during the night hours between 10pm – 6am, it’ll cost a bit more. The meter will start from AR$8.70 (up from AR$6.96) and will jump AR$0.87 every 200 meters or every minute of waiting.
Calling a radio taxi didn’t use to cost extra, but now they have applied a surcharge. I haven’t called a taxi since they’ve made the change, but I was told it’d be around AR$3 and different companies charge differently.
As taking the taxi can now substantially add up and hurt your wallets, for those who are in the city for a longer period of time, my recommendation will be learn how to use the Guia T and start taking the colectivos (buses)!
There is no “number one” pizzería in Buenos Aires. There are far too many that offer some of the finest pizzas this side of the Atlantic to be able to settle on one that surpasses all the rest. What you like the best will depend on how you like your pizza, but here are some of the most famous places in the city so that you know where to start:
Some tried and true chains:
La Continental – A reasonably priced and delicious pizza place, between AR$50 and AR$65 for most large pizzas. They also do delivery, but they’re so popular (and located all over the city) that you’d better be prepared for a wait!
Romarios – Another very popular chain best known for their empanadas (made fresh when you order them!) The price for a large pizza is between AR$40 and AR$65, and they have great a la piedra (thin crust) pizzas.
Kentucky – While I can’t be sure where the name “Kentucky” came from (since I personally don’t know of any strong associations between the Bluegrass State and pizza), they have really great pizzas (I prefer their al molde, or thick crust) that typically cost between AR$60 and AR$70 for a large. This place is very well-known for being open 24-hour a day.
Los Inmortales – This smaller chain is primarily located in Microcentro and Barrio Norte and is another classic piece of Buenos Aires pizza history. Prices run anywhere between AR$50 and AR$80 for a large.
Almacen de Pizzas – This chain comes highly recommended by a few of the locals I know, although I personally have yet to eat here. A large pizza here will cost between AR$60 and AR$84 pesos and their claim-to-fame is a Brie cheese pizza.
Banchero – This chain also comes highly recommended by the locals (and is on my to-do list!) and is where the fugazza con queso was born. Fugazza is a plain pizza crust covered with a thick layer of sliced onions – so with cheese, it’s even better! This particular recipe is a layer of crust, a layer of cheese, another crust, and then the layer of onions. Prices for a large pizza range between AR$60 and AR$70.
Other places:
La Americana – Located near Tribunales, I have to give the pizza here five stars. It’s a very casual, family-friendly atmosphere, with prices ranging from AR$50-AR$85 for a large. Well worth every penny!
Palacio de la Pizza – Located on Av. Corrientes near the Obelisk, it’s right in the heart of the city. Due to the central location the prices run a little higher, but whenever you ask for a recommendation, this one is sure to be on the list.
Las Cuartetas – Right on Av. Corrientes as well and not far at all from Palacio de la Pizza, this is another pizza hot spot that gives you a great meal without spending too much.
El Cuartito – This establishment won a “Mejor Pizzería” (Best Pizzeria) award on Argentina’s online restaurant guide, Guía Oleo. In Barrio Norte, this is definitely a pizza place that can’t be left off anyone’s list.
Note: All the prices mentioned are for reference only.
The first time you try to order a pizza in Buenos Aires you’ll realize that pizza, like many other things in Argentina, is just a little bit different. As a self-proclaimed pizza connoisseur, I am here to give you the breakdown:
Salsas (Sauces)
Where I come from (the United States), there is just one kind of sauce. Pizza sauce. But here there are a few different kinds whose names do little to describe the contents:
Salsa de tomate – First up is the traditional tomato based sauce- the only sauce I ever knew before coming to Buenos Aires. This is the delicious and “traditional” pizza sauce.
Salsa portuguesa – This is a heartier tomato sauce made with bell peppers and onions and includes other herbs and seasonings such as parsley and oregano.
Salsa blanca – Béchamel sauce. For those among us who don’t cook much (because we’re too busy ordering pizza!), Béchamel sauce is a mixture of milk, butter, and flour. Usually use on Veggie pizza.
Salsa golf – Essentially a mixture of mayonnaise and ketchup, along with other ingredients such as mustard to add more flavor. The story behind Salsa golf is that Nobel Laureate Luis Federico Leloir grew tired of being served prawns with mayonnaise and asked the waiter to bring him other condiments. Being the gifted chemist that he was, he mixed up this sauce at the famous Golf Club in Mar del Plata (a resort city south of Buenos Aires), the place from which the sauce now derives its name.
Quesos (Cheeses)
There are a few options, but 95% of the time you’ll find yourself with the cheese at the top of my list:
Muzzarella – the most popular cheese (for obvious reasons) – you might see a few different spellings, but this is by far what you’re the most likely to encounter.
Queso – this is short for “Queso cremoso” – a creamy cheese (not to be confused with cream cheese!) that is simple and is the most commonly found type of cheese down here (outside of a pizza parlor, anyway).
Roquefort – this is a type of blue cheese; most places offer a Roquefort pizza and some places also offer roquefort empanadas.
Provolone – Just like the roquefort, many places have a provolone pizza on hand.
En hebras – this means that the cheese is shredded.
Masas (Crusts)
Just like in the states, there are a few basic types:
A la piedra – thin crust pizza
De molde – a thick crust pizza, up to 2 cm (almost 1 inch) thick
Media masa – this is somewhere between “a la piedra” and “de molde” with regards to thickness, and is what you are more likely to find in a supermarket.
Ingredientes (Toppings)
There are plenty of toppings that we have in common, but I find here that they tend to have a list of pizza recipes with a set combination of toppings. While you can always add toppings, you can’t really “make-you-own” the way you might back home. Here are some familiar and less-familiar toppings you’re likely to encounter:
Aceitunas – unless “negras” (black) are specified, these will be green olives. It’s a 50/50 chance that they’ll have pits depending on where you go. If you don’t like pits, proceed with caution.
Albahaca – Fresh basil leaves are placed on the pizza (after its cooked) to give it a great flavor.
Arúcula – Fresh arugula is also a common post-oven topping.
Palmitos – Palm hearts – Typically sliced up into little bite-size pieces, they go great and can be found on pizzas all over the city.
Huevos – Hard-boiled eggs are shredded and sprinkled on top of the pizza.
Humitas – (you may also see “choclo”) – this is corn – not as common on a pizza, but very common as an empanada.
Morrónes – the local word for peppers, they take long slices of cooked (usually red) peppers and put them on the pizza rather than chopped up slices of raw peppers.
Jamón – this is a very popular pizza topping all around the world, but down here then tend to put on a whole slice of ham rather than smaller pieces.
Fugazza and Fugazzeta
These are an Argentine curiosity. Fugazza is a layer of onions laid on top of a pizza crust, while Fugazzeta is onions, pizza crust, a thick bed of melted cheese. Some people are a little put off by so much onion, but I think its great.
Buenos Aires has been on yellow heat alert, reaching 38°C – 40°C high almost everyday since last week! It’s the summer here and that’s why this is the season when most of the Argentine city dwellers go South to escape the extreme heat. For those who are still in the city, staying inside with the AC on might not be enough. You need something to hydrate and keep you cool from the inside out. Options are there, like the typical soft drinks, fruit juices, smoothies are getting popular here, iced coffee (have to give credit to Starbucks for kick-starting the trend here in BsAs) but iced tea has yet to catch on, and lastly, the ice cold beer.
I am not a beer drinker but realizing the line ‘una cerveza por favor‘ is very likely to be one of the very first things a Spanish beginner has perfected how to say other than ‘hola‘, I know for a lot of people, an ice cold beer is just the right refreshment on a hot Summer day. There are definitely a few more beer-ordering-related vocabulary you should know so you can go beyond ‘una cerveza por favor‘ and get specific:
porrón – most of the time it refers to the small bottle, or in a more general sense that the equivalent amount as in a small bottle is served but could be in glass/beer mug etc. botella – this words mean ‘bottle’ and when it’s used, usually it’s referred to the big 1L one. una jarra – a pitcher el chopp/pinta – they both mean a pint cerveza tirada – beer on tap. Ask ‘¿Qué cervezas tiradas tenés?’ when you want to know what are available on tap. cerveza artesanal – the words literally mean hand-made beer, but it is what we call micro brew in English
Most importantly, if the beer is not cold enough (big problem!), then you can say ‘La cerveza no está suficientemente fría.‘
Now, you should arm with enough vocab to get what you want. Drink moderately and stay cool!
When you look on an Argentina map, you’ll see that Buenos Aires is a city right next to the water, and you’d have thought that this would be a city where people eat tons of seafood and loads of beaches along the coast to enjoy. Unfortunately, while Buenos Aires has many things to offer, seafood and beaches aren’t one of them.
Once you dig a little deeper, you’ll find out quickly that it is a city all about beef. There are definitely seafood restaurants but the situation almost likens to looking to eat pizza in China, they exist but not common and nothing to call home about. When it comes to natural beaches, there are actually none in the city, you will have to go a few hours south to the various beach cities like Pinamar and Mar del Plata, or head to Montevideo or Punta del Este in Uruguay.
Having a beach environment to sunbathe and relax in is not just something tourists want to do, many locals want that too and they might not have the opportunity to travel to one during the summer. Therefore, the Buenos Aires City Government came up with a brilliant idea! They created two man-made beaches, one on the North side and one on the South side, equipped with beach umbrellas, beach chairs, showers, free to everyone to access during the summer season. If just sunbathing is too dull for your taste, they have that covered too. During the opening hours Tuesday – Sunday 10am – 8pm, you’ll find a schedule of different activities going on, like live music, dance classes, courts for volleyball and football games, and even a WIFI zone if you want to get connected. If you have young children in tow, they will be ecstatic to find sandbox already equipped with toys, bouncy castles, and Storytime in the Children Reading Section.
These beaches will open their ‘doors’ this Friday Jan. 6 till Wednesday Feb. 29, 2012. Check out their Playa Buenos Aires official website for more information.
Argentines love to celebrate with fireworks. Since it is legal all year round, they will light up for someone’s birthday, wedding, or any kind of celebrations, amateur or professional alike. Get woken up by firework’s sound on a regular weekend is quite a normal thing. So this goes without saying that you will definitely see a LOT of fireworks going off everywhere in the city as it strikes midnight this New Year’s Eve.
Unlike many major cities in other parts of the world, there’s no one place in Buenos Aires where people gather to celebrate the arrival of the New Year. There’s also no one best spot in particular to see fireworks, in fact, any rooftop will do. If you don’t have any access to one of them, go to somewhere wide open like Puerto Madero or the big parks/plazas in Palermo or Recoleta. You can also buy your own to join in the fun. If you choose the latter, please apply all precautions, pay attention to your surroundings and play safely.
Wherever you are spending your NYE, have a fabulous one and Feliz Año Nuevo! ¡¡Nos vemos en 2012!!
When I say “musical theatre” what is the first thing that comes to your mind? New York, New York, right? Whether you’ve been there or not, the image in your head is Broadway Street and its lights and all that jazz. I have had the luck to visit NYC and I can tell you, that is exactly the image you’ll get in your head. I think that by now, it is common knowledge that Broadway is the Mecca of theatre, especially musicals.
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